HOW TO CHOOSE AND BUY COOKWARE

Go to any well-stocked kitchen store, and it's easy to become overwhelmed by all your cookware choices. So which pots and pans are essential, and how can you tell?

Most pots and pans look similar, but there are certain qualities to check for as you decide which to buy. When you're in the store, don't be shy. Lift the pan, check the thickness of the sides and bottom, and rap the pan with your knuckle. You should hear a thud rather than a ping. Don't be afraid to act out the movements you'll make with the pan. You will use your pan almost daily, so it's essential to ensure it has the right "feel."

Pots and Pans in Drawer

Pots and pans should be heavy enough to conduct heat evenly and keep foods from scorching.

Copper is the most expensive option but reacts with acidic food and requires special care.

Anodized aluminum -- an excellent choice for a sauté pan -- is responsive to heat and is treated to prevent chemical reactions with food.

Cast iron also conducts heat well, but it reacts with acidic sauces and can rust if not properly cleaned and seasoned. Cast iron pots coated with enamel avoid these dilemmas, but they are very heavy a drawback. You should avoid scrubbing these pans with abrasives.

Non-stick pans are a popular choice, significantly if you're cutting down on cooking with fat. In addition, newer non-stick coatings are more scratch-resistant than before.

Stainless steel with an inner layer of copper or aluminum is an excellent all-around choice because it is durable, non-reactive, conducts heat well, and is easy to clean.

Many pots have handles made of a low conductive metal like stainless steel, so they stay relatively calm.

Some cooks prefer welds to rivets with metal handles, which can collect food residue and are more difficult to clean. Whatever you choose, make sure the handle has been secured in several places so that it won't come loose.

Plastic and wood handles are heatproof but not ovenproof: you can't start a dish on the stove-top and finish it in the oven.

Metal handles with a removable plastic or rubber heat guards are the most versatile.

Secure Lids

Lids should fit tightly and have heatproof knobs.

Glass lids are convenient because you can check cooking progress without lifting the lid. Use the manufacturer's guidelines for oven safety.

Lids that fit snugly will keep moisture in the pot. A tempered-glass lid lets cooks keep an eye on simmering dishes, which helps reduce boil-overs.

Many manufacturers sell matching starter sets with 5, 8, or even ten commonly used pieces for a budget price. However, you may not have space or need a large set, and the same material doesn't always work well for every cooking task.

You may be better off buying fewer individual pieces in different materials. For example, a large aluminum sautés pan with high sides may work better than an omelet pan if you make more stir-fries than egg dishes.

If you like to make stews, casseroles, and pot roasts, a cast iron Dutch oven from stove-top to the range is essential, but 1is rarely included in a starter set.

You will most likely need a few more items, such as a vegetable steamer in either stainless steel or bamboo or a roasting pan with a rack.

Bottom line: Choose good-quality individual pieces or sets that match the kind of cooking.